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21 DEVELOPMENT OF FUNCTIONAL SKINCARE COSMETICS                               APPLICATIONS



















                                                                 Figure 21.3
                                                                 Evaluation of Vitamin C delivery efficiency to dermis by
                                                                 VC-IP encapsulated PLGA nanospheres.


                                                                 encapsulating  VC-IP in the PLGA nanospheres,
                                                                 allowing them to pass through the horny layer and be
                                                                 delivered stably through the skin. The VC-IP is grad-
                                                                 ually released due to hydrolysis of PLGA and the
                                                                 metabolism to pure vitamin C by esterase in the epi-
                                                                 dermis and dermis. The immediate effect, however, is
                                                                 attributed to the VC-IP on nanosphere surfaces. These
                                                                 two effects enable PLGA nanospheres to be useful
                                                                 nanoparticle carriers that can deliver pro-vitamin C to
                                                                 hard-to-reach skin area and provide both immediate
                                                                 and sustained cosmeceutical effects.
                  Figure 21.2                                    (3) Defense against UV by VC-IP encapsulated PLGA
                  Permeability comparison between micro dispersion and  nanospheres
                  PLGA NS dispersion in water.                   Recently, owing to the depletion of ozone layer, a
                                                                 larger amount of UV radiation (UV-A, 320–400 nm;
                                                                 UV-B, 280–320 nm) reaches the Earth. UV-A can pen-
                  vitamin C were detected, and none would exist 18 h  etrate the skin to dermis and cause damages to colla-
                  after the treatment. But, when applying VC-IP encap-  gen and elastin from long-term exposure. Although
                  sulated PLGA nanospheres, the vitamin C could be  UV-B does not penetrate to the dermis, it can cause
                  detected even 48 h after the treatment. Fig. 21.3  inflammation (sunburn) such as erythema and edema
                  shows the changes over time in the amount of reduced  in a short time. Daily exposure may induce skin aging
                  Vitamin C at the dermis after applying the aqueous  and skin cancer. For verifying the effect of vitamin C
                  dispersion containing 7.69 wt% of VC-IP encapsu-  delivered to the skin tissue by PLGA nanospheres, we
                  lated PLGA nanospheres (D   215 nm) on the skin  evaluated DNA double-strand breakages in the cell
                                         50
                  samples in comparison to that of applying 1 wt% VC-  nuclei.  This experiment demonstrated the effective-
                  IP oil–water emulsion (D   276 nm). Both of them  ness of applying VC-IP encapsulated PLGA nanos-
                                      50
                  had a VC-IP concentration of 1.0 wt%. However, VC-  pheres to control the DNA damage by UV irradiation.
                  IP encapsulated in the PLGA nanospheres was more  The emulsion containing VC-IP encapsulated PLGA
                  effective than applied as it is. With the VC-IP encap-  nanosphere was applied to human skin samples (from
                  sulated PLGA nanospheres, immediate effect could  the back of the ear of a healthy 47-year-old woman),
                  be observed 2 h after the treatment; and, after 4 h its  which were then given accelerated UV irradiation for
                  cumulative amount of vitamin C could reach 10 times  several tens of seconds to provide a cumulative
                  of that applying VC-IP emulsion. This quantitatively  amount equivalent to that a person could receive in a
                  showed the benefits of using PLGA nanospheres to  day (UV-A, 200 J/cm²; UV-B, 2 J/cm²). The skin sam-
                  deliver vitamin C for skincare applications.   ples were evaluated with the  TUNEL method 24 h
                    If VC-IP is applied alone, the agglutination of its  later. The TUNEL method selectively added the green
                  molecules would be hard to pass through the gaps  fluorescein isothiocyanate to DNA strand broken in
                  between skin cells, but the above effect is achieved by  the skin samples. As shown in Fig. 21.4, the fluoresced

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