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Functional measurements and 7

mobility restriction (from
3D to 4D scanning)

Anke Klepser, Simone Morlock, Christine Loercher, Andreas Schenk
Hohenstein Institute for Textilinnovation gGmbH, Boennigheim, Germany

7.1 Introduction

Clothing has various functions. Alongside the culturally conditioned covering of
nakedness, it should also protect the human body from environmental conditions.
At the same time, clothing cannot be a rigid shell, as it is worn during movement.
In fashionable everyday clothing, relatively moderate position changes of the body
are carried out, but in functional sport clothing or protective work clothing, highly
dynamic movements are carried out in some instances. To make sure clothing prod-
ucts can guarantee an optimal fit, a specific protective function, and an ergonomic
comfort, substantiated analysis of the body is necessary, because clothing can only
protect well when it fits well, especially in movement. For the development of stan-
dard body measurement tables, in part, laborious series of measurements were
designed, which, in the last few years, have been mostly carried out with 3-D body
scanners (Kouchi, 2014; Bougourd, 2014; Hohenstein Institute and Human
Solutions GMBH, 2008; Morlock, 2015b; Morlock et al., 2009). Manually, digitally,
or otherwise, body measurements are recorded standardized in a standing posture
(ISO—International Organisation for Standardization, 1989).
Body measurements are the basis for the development of clothing products. In
movement, various muscles are activated. The body surface changes, and therefore
so do the body dimensions. These movement-related changes of the body measure-
ments had been neither studied nor implemented in size charts until now. Thus a dis-
parity occurs between the basics of standard size charts and the application
requirements of the user. In the area of fashion, this can lead to fit problems. However,
in sport and work clothing as well as personal protective clothing, the consequences
are far more serious. Here, it can lead to mobility restriction, reduced performance, or
even limited protection for the user. Therefore it is of great importance that the
movement-related dimensional changes in measurements (functional measurements)
and their influence on the interaction between the wearer and the clothing are scien-
tifically researched. Through the use of 3-D scanning technology, studies in this topic
area are much easier and quicker to carry out, especially as large groups of test sub-
jects can be very effectively measured. For the first time, Morlock et al. (2018) applied
3-D body scanners to establish functional measurements. They have dealt in detail

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