Page 178 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

Functional measurements and mobility restriction (from 3D to 4D scanning) 173

foundation for development of the production of clothing products with high ergo-
nomic wearing comfort.

7.2.3 Analysis of functional measurements
To derive and analyze functional measurements on a larger sample size for the first
time, a measurement study was initiated (Morlock, 2015a, b). For this, 93 subjects
(men and women) between the ages of 17 and 65 were recorded and measured with
a 3-D body scanner. The three-dimensional recording of the subjects was done with
the Vitus Smart XXL. They were scanned at Hohenstein in the south of Germany. The
participants were from the local area. Nevertheless the random sample shows a good
regional distribution.
To cover the variety of body shapes of the population, the clothing size system of
the last German sizing survey SizeGERMANY is divided into body height rows and
figure types (Hohenstein Institute and Human Solutions GMBH, 2008). The types of
men’s figures are determined by the difference between the chest girth and waist girth
and in women by the difference between the bust girth and the hip girth. For men the
body heights are differentiated between extra short, short, normal, tall, and extra tall.
The types of figures are divided into extra slim, slim, normal, heavy, and extra heavy.
The women accordingly have the differentiated body height rows of short, normal, and
tall and the figure types narrow hips, normal hips, and wide hips.
The sample encompasses the size ranges: 42–64 (chest girth: 84–128cm) for men
and 36–52 (bust girth: 72–104cm) for women. The body heights and figure types
could be largely covered. Although the subjects were randomly selected, a good dis-
tribution of body shapes could be achieved.

7.2.3.1 Landmarking
The prerequisite for recording reproducible body measurements in measuring studies
is working with anthropometric landmarks. Many landmarks are identified in anthro-
pometry by palpation of bony structures under the skin, for example, the spinous pro-
cess of a vertebra. Three-dimensional laser scanners only capture the surface of the
body. Bony structures are only visible, if at all, on slim people, who are assigned
to the small clothing sizes. To be able to reproducibly measure and analyze the length
and circumference measurements, physical markers must be applied to the subjects’
bodies prior to the scanning process. So the changes can be traced and contrasted by
the movement.
In the area of motion capturing, retroreflective markers are used to perform motion
analysis. These enable the identification and tracking of anthropometric points by
camera systems. In principle, these markers would also be suitable for use in 3D scan-
ners, but they are very expensive due to the retroreflective surface in the purchase
price. A cost-effective alternative is commercially available polystyrene balls. In
the project, various sizes were tested.