Page 177 - Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

172 Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design

7.2.1 Definition of functional measurements

Body measurements, which change during movement, and research into them have, to
this day, no clear definition. In various scientific works, names such as dynamic or
functional anthropometry and dynamic or functional measurements are used
(Gersak, 2014; Gupta, 2014; Todd and Norton, 1996). So far, this describes in most
cases the manual or three-dimensional static recording of body measurements in dif-
ferent posture positions.
A dynamic recording of the body surface is already possible through the technical
development of 4-D scanners (see Section 7.4)(Guan et al., 2009, 2012). A derivation
of functional measurements of these has not yet been scientifically implemented. But
this should be seen as the next step in the research of dimensional changes through
movement. Against this background a differentiation of terms is necessary to delineate
the methods. The term “functional measurement” is defined in this chapter as the static
recording of changes in body measurements: for the dynamic recording, accordingly
“dynamic measurements.”

7.2.2 Distinction between standard measurements, functional
measurements, and ergonomic measurements
For the design of clothing, personal protective equipment (PPE), workplaces, and
man-machine interfaces, anthropometric data are used. For these in general, two dif-
ferent measuring systems are used: size charts (Hohenstein Institute and Human
Solutions GmbH, 2008) and ergonomic standards (DIN Deutsches Institut f€ ur
Normung e.V., 2005; Scheffler and Sch€ uler, 2013; J€ urgens et al., 1998; Hsiao
et al., 2014; ISO—International Organisation for Standardization, 2011). In
manufacturing, size charts serve as a basis. The variation of body measurements in
the population is taken into account by the definition of clothing sizes for different
body types. Each clothing size is assigned production-relevant dimensions such as
body height and waist girth. The recording of clothing-technical measurements,
whether for manufacture or individual production, is carried out using the standard
anthropometric posture. In this the person being measured is upright, legs hip width
apart, and arms slightly spread laterally (Ashdown, 2011; Kouchi, 2014; Morlock,
2015a, b; ISO—International Organisation for Standardization, 2010).
The movement-related variation in body measurements is partially reproduced in
ergonomic standards (DIN Deutsches Institut f€ ur Normung e.V., 2005; Scheffler and
Sch€ uler, 2013; J€ urgens et al., 1998; Hsiao et al., 2014). The focus of these ergonomic
standards lies on the design of workplaces, machines, and safety products. Ergonomic
measures are usually represented as the 5th, 50th, and 95th percentile and are differ-
entiated according to sex and age group. However, these only indicate the percentage
distribution of a measurement within a sample of people. The size reference necessary
for the construction of clothing does not exist, so the ergonomic data cannot be
implemented in manufacturing in accordance with the size. Functional measurements
bind the two questions. On the one hand, they produce the size reference; on the other
hand, they show the body changes due to movement. This is considered an important